She wrote in sorrow about her role in making kale appear in unsuitable cuisine.
Apparently, about 40 years ago, she had written a pro-kale piece. It espoused the good things about kale, e.g. nutritional value, flavor absorption; but did not sufficiently emphasize the bad things, e.g., bitterness when cooked dry, tough texture when uncooked.
Now she had this to say (on May 29, 2016),
I’m Sorry for Helping Make Kale Cool
The
leafy green is tough, bitter, and completely unsuited for salads,
brownies, pizza, and most else. It’s the triumph of cool over taste.
Color it green, black, brown, blue, purple, white, or red.
Call it braunkohl, cavolo nero or riccio, chou frisé, borecole, colewort, yuyi ganlan or brassica oleracea acephala.
In any color and by any name, I know and hate kale
when I see it—and these days I see it everywhere: like scorched bits of
burned paper atop pizzas, muffled into pesto as a dusty, bitter blanket
over pasta and risotto, studded like flecks of parchment into brownies
and cookies, muddying up the cool elegance of ice creams and sorbets."Her column (which is available here) explains her article four decades earlier by saying that kale is good when cooked in oil or fat or a deep sauce (the first image is kale cooked in a sausage sauce, the second is kale cooked with white beans with oil). However, kale is bad when served raw or improperly cooked.
Of course changing your mind is not hypocrisy.
Being imprecise or leaving information out is also not hypocrisy.
But, as I mentioned above, the hypocrisy accusation may have been the cause. Also I like the fact that her column was educational.